tt no 




THE 



EXCELSIOR # SQUARE, 



A SYSTEM 



For Cutting Ladies' and Children's Garments. 



INVENTED BY 



a 






MR. and MRS. B. T. PHELPS, 



BELLOWS FALLS, VERMONT. 




IC/ 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the years 18S1, 1883, and 1890, byMR. & Mrs. B. T. 
Phelps, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



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Since the publication and introduction of the first edition of the 
Instructions for the use of the Excelsior Square (the only actual glove- 
fitting system in existence), it can be truthfully said that the Excelsior 
Square system for cutting ladies' and children's garments has proven to 
be far more excellent than the inventors even dared to hope for it in 
the beginning, and has been in use seven years, having been intro- 
duced in all the large towns and cities in the United States, has taken 
the first rank and become the leading System over all others. 

This is an age of progression, and there is no good reason why the 
science of dress-making should not attain that degree of advancement 
and perfection which has been given to many other branches of busi- 
ness on which the best inventive talent and skill of the land has been 
expended. We have long observed the great necessity that is felt by 
almost every lady in the land for the need of a better, less complex, 
more accurate system for cutting ladies' and children's garments. 

There are a few (so-called) first-class systems for dress cutting of 
considerable merit, but we venture to say that there are none that are 
universally accepted as being perfect, first-class systems in every 
respect ; being either very inferior or too complicated to be under- 
stood and appreciated by the average dress- maker. 

Dress-makers must not be deceived into the fallacious idea of 
believing that all the (so-called) measurement systems are alike, for 
they are not, but are widely different, both in the mode of drafting and 
in the manner of construction, and while some are very good, oth- 
ers are no better than the poorest kind of chart, and are in reality based 
upon the same principles. Charts and other inferior systems would 
do once, but the world surely moves and they must give way to some- 
thing better. 

No system that requires the taking of only three or four measures 
can be expected to be very accurate, for there must necessarily be more 
or less changing of seams. There is not, nor can there ever be, a sys- 
tem so constructed as to procure a stylish, perfect fitting garment when 
the system is so scaled, or the rules given for drafting are based upon 
any particular measure other than the measure taken to correspond 
with that portion of the figure the garment is intended to fit. If every 
figure was symmetrical in form it would be practical, but as they are 
not it is utterly impossible. 






THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 



There is only one way, and that is to take a measure for each and 
every portion of the figure the garment is intended to fit, and by cer- 
tain rules which we have adopted, based wholly upon mathematical 
principles, we are enabled to fit every figure, whether regular or irreg- 
ular in proportion, or of any dimensions, without the slightest change 
ox seams. All that is necessary is to take a correct measure, and to 
draft properly. 

It is of the greatest importance to every dress-maker in the land, 
and especially to every young lady who is learning or intends to learn 
dress-making, to procure the very best method they can get, as the art 
of cutting and fitting perfectly is the only basis upon which a success- 
ful business can be established, for no amount of trimming and draping 
can suffice for an ill-fitting garment. 

The way to procure a stylish, perfect garment, is not by using 
some chart or other poor system, neither by pinning to the form, nor 
cutting by pattern, taking the impression of the form, as it is some- 
times termed, which is nothing more or less than taking a piece of 
muslin made for that purpose and fitting it to the figure, shaping a 
pattern by which the garment is cut. This method takes too much 
valuable time (and time is money), also years of experience, and but 
very few are even then first-class cutters ; the most expert cannot cut 
and fit in that or any other way as perfect, easy-fitting and stylish a 
garment as we guarantee can be done, with but very little experience, 
by the Excelsior Square, and without any refitting whatever (incredi- 
ble as it may seem to some), which we can fully demonstrate to the 
entire satisfaction of the most incredulous. 

Dress-makers cannot afford to spend too much valuable time try- 
ing on garments and refitting them, when it can all be done without, 
by using the Excelsior Square. No one can fail to see the importance 
of keeping up with the times, for she who does the best work and cuts 
the most stylish and best fitting garment that the lady can wear with 
ease and comfort, is sure to get the most and best custom. 

The Excelsior Square is the only system in existence where everv 
measure taken is each independent of itself and not affected in any way 
by any other measure, unlike all other systems, where the breast meas- 
ure regulates the neck, shoulder and arm shape, and as there are no two 
forms exactly alike, it is impossible to always get a perfect fit, which 
we claim for the Excelsior Square. It requires but very little prac- 
tice to be able to cut any style of garment by referring to the various 
reports of the fashion plates as they appear from time to time. The 
system and style of drafting being so arranged that the relative posi- 
tion of seams does not alter the fit of the garment and may be changed 
at will. All that is necessary to meet the requirements of the prevail- 
ing fashions is to become thoroughly acquainted with the fundamental 
principles of the system. It is especially adapted for cutting cloaks 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



It is just as easy to cut for a child as for an 

fitting a 



and children's garments, 
adult. 

The difficulty experienced by nearly all dress-makers in 
garment nicely over the hips is entirely obviated. 

The pattern, when drafted correctly, will correspond with each 
and every measure, there being a measure taken for every part of the 
garment, and the measures are easily taken and are not difficult to un- 
derstand ; neither are the rules for drafting hard to learn, even to those 
who have never done dress-making. In fact, we have intended to make 
ovr system so plain and simple that "He who runs may read" and 
understand perfectly. 

The reason so many ladies have failed to make dress-making a 
success is because they have not had a good system to cut by. She 
has no one but herself to blame in this age of progression, who fails 
to at least investigate when a first-class measurement system is shown 
to her. The numerous charts and worthless systems, many of which 
have been in use for a long time, should be consigned to oblivion or 
laid upon the shelf as relics of the past. 

In offering the Excelsior Square to the public all we ask is that it 
be given a fair and impartial trial and judged according to its merits. 

Yours respectfully, 

Mr. & Mrs. B. T. Phelps. 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE DEFINED. 

With Suggestions for its use. 



The Excelsior Square is a Rule divided and subdivided into inches 
and parts of inches, with various Scales on either side of the Square 
representing the different measures taken of the person for whom the 
garment is to be drafted, and is designated as follows : 

i . By the Long Arm (which is twenty inches long) . 

2. The Short Arm ( which is ten inches long). 

3. The Corner (which is at the point where the Long and Short 
Arm are joined together). 

4. The Curved End (which is on the inside of Long Arm of 
Square and is used to form the darts and the various curved lines that 

are required in drafting the different styles of garments) . 

5. The Inside of the Square (which is that portion where Scales 
C, Back, Shoulder, Backarm, width of Back, Front waist Scales and 
the Curve are situated). 

6. The Outside of the Square (which is on the straight side of 
the Long Arm, and the corresponding side of the Short Arm) . 

7. The Front Side (is the side upon which are found the Scales 
by which the front is drafted) . 

8. The Back of the Square (is the side upon which are found 
the Scales by which the Back is drafted). 

9. The Back Neck Scale, on Short Arm of Square is used in 
drafting the Back Neck, which is represented by figures corresponding 
with the size of the Neck Measure. 

10. The Back Shoulder Scale, on Short Arm of Square, is used 
to find the Slope of Shoulder in back drafting, and is represented by 
figures corresponding with the length of Shoulder Measure. 

11. The Back Arm Scale, situated on inside of Short Arm of 
Square, is used to obtain the width of Back Arm Shape, and is repre- 
sented by figures corresponding with the size of Arm Measure. 

12. The Width of Back Scale is situated on the inside of Long 
Arm of Square and is used to obtain the width of Back, and is repre- 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



sented by figures corresponding with the width of Back Measure. 

13. The Back Waist Scales are situated on the outside of Long 
Arm of Square. No. 1 Scale is used to obtain the proper width of 
the Center Back. No. 2 Scale is used to obtain the Size of Back 
Waist, and are both represented by figures corresponding with Size of 
Waist Measure. 

14. The Back Shoulder Scale is situated on the inside of Long 
Arm of Square at the Curved End and is used to obtain the desired 
length of Back Shoulder, and is represented by figures corresponding 
with the Shoulder Measure. 

15. The Front Neck Scale is situated on the outside of Long Arm 
of Square and is used in drafting the Front Neck, and is represented 
by figures corresponding with the Size of Neck Measure. 

16. The Size of Breast Scale is situated on the outside of Long 
Arm of Square and is used to obtain the Size of Breast, also to obtain 
the Size of Arm, and is represented by figures corresponding with 
both the Size of Breast and size of Arm Measures. 

17- The front Shoulder Scale is situated on the outside of the 
Short Arm of Square and is used to obtain the Front Shoulder Slope 
and is represented by figures corresponding with the Shoulder Meas- 
ure. 

18. The Front Neck Scale that is situated on the outside of the 
Short Arm of Square is used to obtain the Height of Neck in front at 
the front hem line and is represented by figures corresponding with 
the Neck Measure. 

19. The Front Arm Scale is situated on the inside of Short Arm 
of Square and is used to obtain the depth of Arm Size at the Armpit 
and is represented by figures corresponding with the size of Arm 
Measure. 

20. Scale C is situated on the inside of Long Arm of Square 
and is used to obtain the proper width or space that the front dart 
should be placed from the front hem line and is represented by figures 
corresponding with the size of Waist Measure. 

21 . The Front Waist Scale is situated on the inside of Long Arm 
of Square and is used to obtain the Size of Waist and is represented 
by figures corresponding with the size of Waist Measure. 

22. The scholar should be particular to study carefully the fore- 
going explanation, as it is essential to thoroughly understand the Square 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE *J 

and its use before commencing to draft ; also to study the different cuts 
or diagrams. The dots being lettered and the lines numbered, a care- 
ful perusal and examination of the same will enable the scholar to better 
understand the rules given and greatly facilitate the drafting. 



RULES FOR TAKING THE MEASURE. 



i. Ascertain the Size of Neck by taking a close measure inside 
of collar. 

2. Length of Back is obtained by measuring from prominent 
bone in back of neck to the full length of natural waist. 

3. Length of Shoulder is obtained by measuring from the Neck 
at a point where the shoulder seam should be, the desired length of 
Shoulder. 

4. The size of Arm is obtained by passing the tape under the 
arm and over the point of Shoulder. A close measure should be taken. 

5. Width of Back is obtained by measuring from the side seam 
at the bottom of back arm shape across the fullest part of back to the 
opposite side. 

6. Size of Waist is obtained by passing the tape around the small 
part of Waist. The exact measure should be taken, then deduct two 
inches and use that number to draft by. 

7. Length Under Arm is obtained by placing end of tape meas- 
ure close up under the Arm and measure down to the Hips at the 
Waist line. 

8. Size of Breast is obtained by placing the tape measure over 
the fullest part of the Bust, the tape passing around the body close up 
under the Arms at the armpit and over the broadest part of the Back. 
Now deduct width of Back already taken and the remainder will be 
the size of Breast Measure. 

9. Height of Dart is obtained by placing the end of tape at the 
prominent bone in back of Neck. Now pass the tape over the Right 
Shoulder close up to the Neck to the fullest part of Bust, at a point 
where the height of first Dart should be. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



10. Length of Front is obtained by placing the end of tape at the 
prominent bone in the Back of Neck ; now pass the tape over the 
Right Shoulder close up to the neck, and over the fullest part of the 
Bust, to the proper length of Waist in front. (The length of front 
should be taken without removing tape after Height of Dart is taken 
to save replacing tape) . 

1 1 . Width of Chest. — Place tape at the point inside of Shoulder 
bone and measure across the Chest at the throat to the opposite side. 
A narrow measure should be taken. 

12. Size of Hips is obtained by passing the tape around the body 
over the fullest part of the Hips, about four inches below the natural 
Waist. 

13. Length of Arm is taken by raising the Right Arm in the 
form of a Square, measuring from the Point of Shoulder to the prom- 
inent bone in the Wrist. 

14. Length of Arm to Elbow is obtained by measuring from the 
Point of Shoulder to Elbow joint. 

15. Size of Elbow is obtained by measuring around the Arm at 
(The Arm should be bent to prevent taking the measure too 



Elbow, 
small. 

16. 
Hand. 

line the desired length of Skirt. 



Size of Wrist is obtai ned by measuring round the Wrist or 
Length of Skirt is obtained by measuring from the Waist 



Important Suggestions on Taking the Measures. 



1. Width of chest measure must be taken narrow, if not there 
will be too much cloth and the dress will have to be turned away at 
front hem line. 

2. If the neck measure is taken too loose the neck will not only 
be too large, but there will be a looseness at the shoulder seam near 
the neck and is liable to cut too low at the front hem line. 

3. If the length of back is taken too long it will cause the gar- 
ment to be too high in the back neck, causing cross wrinkles at the 
neck. 



TPIE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 



4. The length of shoulder must not be taken too short, for it will 
spoil the style and beauty of the garment ; it had better be taken too 
long than too short, for if too long it can be cut off, but if too short 
there is no remedy after the garment is cut. 

5. If the size of arm measure is taken too loose it will cause a 
looseness at the shoulder and give too much depth to the arm shape, 
and make the arm hole too large. 

6. If the length of front is taken too long it will cause the gar- 
ment to roll up at the waist line and make wrinkles, otherwise the 
waist line will be too low, in that case it would be too tight below the 
waist line in front. 

7. The size of w^aist measure must be drafted two inches less 
than the garment is to be when finished, as it will gain that amount 
in tracing and making. 



Great Care should be Exercised in Taking the Measure 

For it will be next to an impossibility to obtain a perfect fitting gar- 
ment unless a correct measure has been taken. Never be governed by 
the dress the lady has on, for it may be very ill fitting. Neither be in- 
fluenced in any manner what the lady says in regard to making the 
garment long w 7 aisted, for there is only one way and that is to take the 
measure the full length of natural waist and no more (be it long or 
short). You are supposed to understand the system and know better 
how to take the measures than the lady whom you are fitting; all that is 
necessary for you to understand from her is whether she wants the gar- 
ment close or loose fitting and the style she wants it cut. The drafting 
should also be performed with precision, as a slight variation of the 
Square will throw the seams out of their proper position. After the 
garment has been drafted, traced and cut out, the next thing to be 
done is to baste it up properly, for if it is not rightly basted no garment 
can be expected to fit well. When this has been done a perfect-fitting 
garment is guaranteed in all cases, without the slightest change of 
seam. Be thorough in every particular, for w T hat is worth doing at 
all is worth doing well. 



10 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



FIG. I. 



2 A 




A DIAGRAM REPRESENTING THE BACK FOR A TIGHT-FITTING BASQUE. 



Rules for Drafting. 



i. Place the Long Arm of Square on paper towards you, one 
and one-half inches from the edge, the Short Arm to the left and near 
the edge of the paper, and draw lines i and 2. 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE II 

2. Without moving Square make dot A, on line 2, the size of 
neck, using Back Neck scale on Short Arm of Square. 

3. Make dot B, on line 1, one-fourth of an inch below the junc- 
tion of lines 1 and 2. 

4. Make dot C, on line 1 , one-fourth of an inch more than the 
length of back measure, below the junction of lines 1 and 2. 

5. Move the Square, place the Short Arm online 1 ; the Length 
of Shoulder, as represented by Back Shoulder Scale at the junction of 
lines 1 and 2. (If the Shoulder Measure is more than seven inches, 
place the figure 7 of the scale at the junction of lines 1 and 2, and 
draw line 3 at Long Arm of Square from line 1.) 

6. Move the Square down on line 1 ; place the inside of Short 
Arm on line 1, at the junction of lines 1 and 3, and draw line 4 at the 
inside of Long Arm and make dot D the width of Back measure. 

7. Move the Square down ; place the corner at dot C ; Short 
Arm on line 1 and draw line 5 from dot C at Long Arm of Square, 
and make dot E on line 5, one-half inch from dot C. Make dot F on 
line 5, the size of Waist measure, using the Back Waist Scale No. 1. 
Make dot G one-half inch from dot F. Make dot H the size of Waist 
Measure, using the Back Waist Scale No. 2. 

Note. — Before moving the Square, note the distance from dot C 
on line 1 to the junction of lines 1 and 4, and if the distance is less than 
the length of Under Arm Measure, line 4 must be raised to the point 
indicating the length of Under Arm Measure. Now draw a new line 
from that point and make dot D on that line. 

If the distance from dot C and the junction of lines 1 and 4 be 
more than the length of the Under Arm Measure, line 4 should not be 
changed. 

When line 4 is raised, line 3 (the shoulder slope) must be raised 
the same amount. 

8. Move square down; Short Arm on line 1, the Corner of 
Square four inches below dot C, and make dot I at Corner of Square on 
line 1. Make dot J the size of Waist Measure, using the Back W'aist 
Scale No. 1 . Make dot K one-half inch beyond dot J. Make dot L 
one actual inch more than the size of Waist Measure, using Back 
Waist Scale No. 2. (That is, dot L should be one inch further from 
dot I than dot H is from dot C.) 

9. Draw line 6 (the back neck) from dot B to dot A. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



10. Place Curved End of Square at dot A, the inside of Long 
Arm crossing line 3, at the Length of Shoulder Measure, using the 
Back Shoulder Scale, and draw line 7 from dot A to line 3. 

11. Remove the Square ; place the Curved End at the junction 
of lines 3 and 7, the inside of Long Arm resting at dot D, and draw 
line 8 from the Shoulder Line to clot D. 

12. Move Square down, place the Curved end at dot D, the in- 
side of Long Arm resting at dot H, and draw line 9 from dot D to dot 
H. Make dot M on line 8, one-half of the distance between dot D 
and the junction of lines 3 and 7? above dot D. 

13. Place Curved End of Square at dot M inside ot Long Arm 
on dot C and draw curved line four inches down. Now move Square 
down to the end of line drawn ; also place inside of Long Arm of 
Square at dot F and continue line 10 to dot F, and without moving 
the Curved End of Square, place the inside ,of Long Arm at dot G. 
Now draw line 11 from the Curved End of Square to dot G. (See 
diagram.) 

14. Draw line 12 from the junction of lines 1 and 3 to dot E. 

15. Draw line 13 from dot E, through dot I, the length of skirt. 

16. Draw line 14 from dot F, through dot K, the length of skirt. 

17. Draw line 15 from dot G, through dot J, the length of skirt. 

18. Turn the Square over and place the Curved End at dot H, 
the inside of Long Arm from you and resting at dot L, and draw line 
16 the length of skirt. 

19. Dot N is obtained by placing the Short Arm of Square on 
line 4 the corner one-half inch beyond dot D. Now make dot N on 
long arm one-half inch below line 4, then draw a line with Curved 
End of Square from dot N to line 9 and extend line 8 to dot N (see 
diagram). This addition may be made or omitted, according to the 
figure and the taste of the artist ; when this addition is made, the 
same amount must be deducted from front drafting at arm's eye (see 
Fig. 2). 



Miscellaneous Rules. 



1 . The Side Form may extend to the shoulder instead of the arm 
size, if desired, in which case make dot M on line 7 at a point one- 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 1 3 

halfway between dot A and the junction of lines 3 and 7, and draw 
line 10 from dot F to dot M at the shoulder. Line 1 1 should be drawn 
from dot G to line 10 at a point about one inch below the junction of 
lines 4 and 10, and should be a straight line. 

2. When the figure is what is termed round-shouldered, from 
one-fourth to one-half of an inch is taken off at the side form below dot 
M, at a point about one-fourth ot an inch outside of line 8, and draw a 
curved line to line 10, at a point from three to four inches below dot 
M, and draw a new line from the dot just made, about one-fourth of 
an inch outside of line 8 to dot D, which forms the back arm shape 
for the side form. This is done to make the side form the same length 
as the center back. The cutting off below clot M shortens the Side 
Form, which necessitates the carrying of the Side Form about one- 
fourth of an inch outside of line 8, in order to make the new line the 
same length as the one drawn to dot M (See diagram). 

3. Where the figure is very full at the back neck, there should 
be about one-fourth of an inch taken off of line 6, inside of dot B, and 
draw a line from that point with the curved end of the Square to line 
1 at a point from two to three inches below dot B. (See diagram.) 



Tracing. 



1. Pin the pattern on the cloth, andHvith the tracing- wheel trace 
the waist line from dot E to dot F, from dot F on line 10 to dot M on 
line 8 ; now trace line 8 from dot M to line 7, trace line 7 to dot A, 
trace line 6 from dot A to dot B, from dot B on line 1 to line 12, on 
line 12 to dot E, and from dot E the length of line 13, and from dot 
F the length of line 14. Remove pattern and cut out center back, al- 
lowing for all seams except at the neck and arm size. 

2. Replace the pattern on the cloth and trace the side form on 
the waist line from dot G to dot H, from dot H on line 9 to dot D, 
from dot D on line 8 to dot M, from dot M on line 10 to line 11, and 
then on line 11 to dot G ; now trace from dot G the length of line 15, 
and from dot H the length of line 16. Remove pattern and allow for 
seams except at arm size. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



Fir. 2 




i . Place Long Arm of Square parallel with the edge of paper 
allowing width for lap and draw line i . 

2. Place Short Arm on line I, the Long Arm near the edge of 
paper and draw line 2 from line 1, 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 1 5 

3. Make dot A on line 2 at the size of neck, using the Neck 
Scale on Long Arm of Square. • 

4. Make dot B on line 1 the size of neck, using the front Neck 
Scale on Short Arm. 

5. Make dot C on line 1, the length of Shoulder, using the 
Shoulder Scale. 

6. Make dot D on line 2 the size of Breast, using the Breast 
Scale. 

7. Move Square dovvrij place the Corner at dot C ; Short Arm 
on line 1 and draw line 3 at Long Arm of Square. 

8. Place corner of Square at dot A, Short Arm resting on dot 
B and make dot E on Long Arm of Square one-half inch less than 
length of Shoulder measure. 

9. Place Corner of Square at dot E, short arm resting on dot B 
and make dot F one-half of width of Chest Measure from dot E on 
Short Arm of Square. 

10. Measure the space from dot B to dot F and make dot G on 
line 2 the same distance from dot A that dot F is from dot B. 

1 1 . Draw line 4 from dot F to dot G. 

12. Place the Corner of square at dot G the Long Arm crossing 
line 3 at a point one-half inch less than the length of shoulder, and 
draw line 5 from dot G to line 3 ; drop Square so the Short Arm will 
touch dot F, and make dot H one-half inch less than Shoulder Meas- 
ure on Long Arm. 

13. Place Corner of Square at dot D, Short Arm on line 2, and 
draw line 6 the length of Long Arm of Square and make dot I the size 
of Arm Measure using the Breast Scale. 

14. Place Corner of Square at dot I and make dot J the length 
of line 9 (from dot D to H) in back drafting (Fig. 1) below dot I 
and make dot K one-half inch below dot I. 

15. Place inside Corner of Long Arm of Square on line 6 at dot 
K, and draw line 7 the length of inside of Short Arm and make dot L 
the size of arm, using front Arm Scale. 

16. Place corner of Square at dot L and make dot M two inches 
below dot L, and make dot N the length of Under Arm Measure be- 
low dot L. 

17. Place the Long Arm of Square the exact length of the back 
neck (Line 6, Fig. 1) at dot G, and bring the Long Arm down to touch 



1 6 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 

line i at the length of Front Measure and make dot O the height of 
dart and dot P the length of Front Measure. 

1 8. Draw line 8 from dot M through dot O to line I. 

19. Place inside corner of Short Arm of Square on line 1 at dot 
P and make dot Q_at size of waist, using Waist Scale on inside of Long 
Arm ; now draw line 9 from dot Q_to dot P and make dot R the size 
of waist, using Scale C. 

20. Place Corner of Square at dot F, Long Arm resting at junc- 
tion of lines 1 and 8, and draw line 10 the length of Long Arm. 

21. Dot out the Arm Hole from dot I to dot L, curving below 
line 7 one-half inch, and from dot L through dot H to Shoulder Line. 

22. Measure the space from dot Q_to dot J, and if the space be 
less than four and one-half inches, make dot S four and one-half inches 
from dot Q. Now draw line 12 from dot S to dot I that will allow 
one and one-half inches for each dart, the two front ones and the un- 
der arm. If the space from dot Q^to dot J be more than four and one- 
half inches, take one-third for each dart, that is, the space should be 
equally divided into three darts ; when the space from dot Q^ to dot J 
is more than four and one-half inches, dot S is omitted, also line 12. 

23. Make dot T one and one-half inches from dot R, then make 
dot U three-fourths of an inch from dot T, and dot V one and one- 
half inches from dot U, also make a cross in the centre of each dart on 
line 9. 

24. Place Corner of Square at cross centre of first dart, Short 
Arm on line 9, Long Arm crossing line 8, and make a dot on line 8 ; 
now make dot W one-half inch back from that dot ; now measure the 
space from dot W to the Front Hem Line and make dot X the same 
distance from dot W that dot W is from the Front H£m Line. 

25. Place Curved End of Square at dot W, inside of Long Arm 
resting on dot R, and draw curved line ; turn Square over, place curved 
end of Square at dot W and draw curved line from dot W to dot T. 

26. Place Curved End of Square at dot X, inside of Long Arm at 
dot V, and draw curved line ; turn Square over, place Curved End at 
dot X, inside of Square at dot U and draw curved line. 

27. Place Corner of Square at cross in centre of dart, Short Arm 
on line 9, and make a dot twelve inches below on Long Arm ; now 
draw two straight lines from dots R and T to the dot twelve inches 
below ; make the second dart in the same manner, 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE if 

28. Place Curved End of Square at dot V and continue line 9 
from dot V through dot N to dot S. 

29. Make a dot one-half the distance from dot V to dot S, place 
the Short Arm on line 7 and draw line 13 the length of Long Arm 
through the clot just made. . 

30. Make dots Y and Z three-fourths of an inch each side of line 
13 ; on line 9 now draw a straight line from dot Z to junction of lines 
7 and 13, draw straight line from dot ^ to line 13 four inches below 
line 9. 

31. Place Curved End of Square at junction of lines 7 and 13, 
inside of Long Arm on dot Y, and draw curved line. 

32. Place Corner of Square at dot P and draw a line parallel 
with line 10 the desired length of Skirt of Basque; this new line is 
the one to trace on, also the one used in measuring for size of hips ; 
line 1 is not used below dot P. 

33. Place the Long Arm on line 6, the Corner of Square four 
inches below dot S, and make dot AA two and one-half inches from 
Corner of Square at Short Arm. 

34. Place Long Arm of Square on line 13, Corner four inches be- 
low Waist Line and make dot BB one inch from line 13 at Short Arm 
of Square. 

35. Place Curved End of Square at dot Y inside of Long Arm 
from you on dot BB, and draw curved line. 

36. Place Curved End of Square at dot S inside of Long Arm 
from you on dot AA, and draw curved line. 

37. Now measure the spaces between dots I and K, J and L, 
(Fig. 1) and the distance from a point four inches below dot P on the 
center line to dot BB, less the amount for the two front darts ; and from 
line 13 to dot AA, and if it is more than one-half the size of Hip 
Measure line 16 (Fig. 1), also lines 14 and 15 (Fig. 2) should be 
drawn inside to make the proper size, and if less than one-half the 
size of Hip lines 14 and 15 (Fig. 2) should be extended the desired 
amount. Do not fail to regulate the size of Hips properly before 
tracing lining. 



1 8 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



TRACING, 



1. When the drafting is done, pin the pattern on the lining, line 
10 straight with edge of goods, allowing width for lap, and with trac- 
ing-wheel trace the Waist line first from dot P to dot Y, from dot Y 
on curved line to Arm-hole, from that point through dot L to dot H 
on line n", from dot H to line 5 on line 5 to dot G, from dot G on line 
4 to dot F, from dot F on line 10 to the junction of lines 1 and 10; 
from that point on line 1 to dot P, from dot P on the center line the 
length of Skirt. From dot Y through dot BB on line 15 trace the two 
front darts; remove the pattern, cut out the front, allowing for all 
seams except at Neck and Arm-hole. 

2. Replace pattern, trace the Waist line from dot Z to dot S, 
from dot S on line to Armhole ; now trace Armhole out to line 13 
and from that point on straight line to dot Z, from dot Z on straight line 
to meet line 13, on line 13 the length of Skirt ; now trace from dot S 
through dot AA on line 14 the length desired. 



MISCELLANEOUS RULES. 



1. If the back Waist line 5, (Fig. 1) is made more than the 
back Waist Scale, No. 2 indicates dot Q^ Fig. 2, must be made the 
same amount less on line 9 ; and if the back Waist is made less than 
the back Waist Scale, No. 2 indicates dot Q^ on line 9 (Fig. 2) must 
be made the same amount farther from dot P, that is, if you make dot 
H on line 5 (Fig. 1) one-half inch less than Scale No. 2 indicates, 
you must make dot Q^on line 9 (Fig. 2) one-half inch more than front 
Waist Scale indicates ; that is, what is added to the back Waist line 
must be deducted from the front Waist line, and what is deducted from 
the back Waist line must be added to the front Waist line. 

2. Or the size of Waist maybe obtained as follows : Measure the 
spaces on line 5 (Fig. 1) between dots E and F, and G and H ; now 
place the Long Arm of Square on line 9 at the point indicating the exact 
width of back Waist line at dot P and make dot Q^at the point on Long 
Arm of Square, indicating the size of Waist Measure using the size of 
Breast Scale. 



20 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



Fir- 3 




THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 21 

Rules for Drafting Front with French Dart. 



i. In drafting French Dart proceed in the same manner as rules 
given for drafting plain front, (Fig. 2) with the following exceptions : 
Make dot S five inches from dot Q_, allow one and one-half inches 
from dqt R to dot T (width of first dart) then for the second dart allow 
two inches from dot U to dot V, and one and one-half inches for Un- 
der Arm dart ; if there is more than five inches from dot Q_ to dot J 
(See Fig. 2) omit dot S and line 12 and divide the amount in the 
usual way, allowing one-half inch more for second dart than for the 
other two. In making second dart place the Curved End of Square, 
the figure 18 resting at top of second dart, the inside of Long Arm on 
dot V ; now draw line from the top of dart the length of inside of Long 
Arm of Square. 

2. Make two dots on Armhole one inch apart, (See Diagram) 
place Curved End of Square at low T er dot, inside of Long Arm at top of 
second dart, and draw curved line 17 from Armhole to top of dart; 
move Square toward you, place straight edge at top of dart also the 
straight end at upper dot and draw line 18 from dot to top of second 
dart. 

3. In placing pattern on lining to trace, pin line 10 the front 
hem line straight with goods, allowing width for lap. Cut out the 
space between lines 17 and 18, then cut open the second dart from bot- 
tom to top ; now draw lines 17 and 18 together and pin firmly, trace 
same as rules given for tracing Fig. 1 . The effect given is the broad 
dart with no fullness at top of dart or Armhole. 

4. If the space cut out of Armhole between lines 17 and 18 
makes the Armhole too small, add the necessary amount beyond line 
13 at Armhole, and dot; now trace curved line (the under-arm dart) 
from dot Y to meet this dot, and the Armhole will be the same size 
as it was before the space between lines 17 and 18 was cut out. 



22 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



Fig*. 4 




THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 23 

Rules for Drafting Front with two Under-Arm Darts. 

1. Proceed in the same manner as draft for Plain Front (Fig. 2) 
until you make dot Q_, the space from dot Q^ to dot S allow five and 
one-half inches, one and one-half inches for the first dart, two inches 
for the second and one inch for each of the two under-arm darts ; now 
dot the space from dot V to dot S into three equal parts and draw 
straight lines from the Armhole through these dots the length of Skirt 
of Basque ; if this brings the first under-arm seam too near the front 
at Armhole, draw a new line from the Waist line up and slant it back 
to the proper point at Armhole. 

2. For first dart dot on Waist line three-fourths of an inch from 
first line toward dot V and dot one-fourth of an inch on the other side 
toward dot S ; now draw straight lines to meet at Armhole. (See 
diagram.) 

3. For second dart dot on Waist line from straight line three- 
fourths of an inch toward dot S, and on the other side one-fourth of an 
inch toward the front ; now draw straight lines to meet at Armhole. 

4. Draw straight lines from the back side of each under-arm dart 
to meet the center lines four inches below the Waist Line. 

5. Place Long Arm of Square on the center lines of each under- 
arm dart, the Corner extending four inches below the Waist line, and 
dot one-half inch from you on Short Arm of Square. Regulate the 
size of Hips as in rules given for plain draft. (Fig. 2.) 

6. If the French Dart is used with the two under-arm darts lines 
17 and 18 are used; if straight darts are used lines 17 and 18 are 
omitted, and if there is extra fullness at Armhole it must be taken out 
at top of the two under-arm darts. 



H 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



FIG. 5, 




A DIAGRAM REPRESENTING THE BACK FOR A HALF-FITTING CLOAK. 

Figure 5 is drafted the same as figure 1 with the following excep- 



tions 



1 . Make dot Q^ on line 4 one and one-half inches beyond dot 



K. 



2. Place the Corner of Square at dot Q^the Short Arm online 4, 
and draw line 18 from dot Q^at the Long Arm of Square. 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 25 

3. Without moving Square make dot R, on line iS, one-half 
inch below dot Q. 

4. Place the Corner of Square at dot R, the Long Arm on line 
18 and make dot S, on line iS the length of the under arm measure 
below dot R. 

5. Place the Corner of Square at dot C, the Long Arm resting on 
dot S, and draw line 5 from dot C. at Long Arm of Square. 

6. Without moving Square make dot G on line 5, three-fourths 
of an inch from dot C. 

7. Without moving Square make dot H on line 5, three-fourths 
of an inch more than the Back Waist Scale No. 1 indicates. 

8. Without moving Square make dot F on line 5, one and one- 
half inches (actual inches) more than the size of W x aist measure indi- 
cated by scale No. 2. 

9. Place Short Arm of Square on line 1, the Corner at a point 
four inches below dot C, and make dot M. 

10. Make dot N, at the point on Long Arm of Square indicating 
the size of Waist measure, as represented by the Back Waist Scale 
No. 1. 

11. Make dot O, one inch beyond dot N, at Long Arm of 
Square. 

12. Make dot P, at Long Arm of Square two and one-half inches 
more than the size of Waist Measure, as represented by Back Waist 
Scale No. 2. (That is dot P should be one inch further from dot M 
than dot F is from dot C). 

13. Draw all the lines as represented by Fig. 5. The curved 
line 17 should be drawn by using the Curved End of Square. 



THE MEASURE FOR OUTSIDE GARMENTS. 



The Size of Neck, the Size of Waist and the size of Arm measures 
should be one inch larger. The Size of Breast and Width of Back 
should each be one-half inch larger, and the Size of Hip measure two 
inches larger than the measure taken for an inside garment. 






INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



FIG 



. 6. 




A DIAGRAM REPRESENTING THE FRONT FOR A HALF-FITTING CLOAK, 



i . Make dot B, on line 2, one and one-half inches less than the 
size of Breast Scale on Long Arm of Square indicates. (The same 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 2*J 

amount that is added to the width of back must be deducted from the 
size of breast in actual inches.) 

2. Measure line 9 in Fig. 5, and make dot H one-fourth of an 
inch more than the length of line 9, below dot G, on line 6. 

3. Make dot I on line 6, one-fourth of an inch below dot G. 

4. Draw line 7 from dot G. 

5. Make dot J, on line 7, one and one-half inches less than front 
Arm scale on the inside of Short Arm of Square indicates. (The same 
amount should be deducted from the depth of Arm Size that is deducted 
from the size of Breast Measure). 

6. Line 8 should be drawn from dot E, through dot J to dot I, 
on line 6. 

7. Place the Curved End of Square at dot I, inside of Long Arm 
on dot H, and draw a curved line from dot I to dot H. 

8. Make dot BB, four inches below dot H, at a point indicating 
one-half the size of Hip measure, and draw a curved line from dot H 
through dot BB, the length of skirt of cloak. 



CHILDREN'S GARMENTS. 



1 . The back for a child is drafted the same as for an adult, except 
lines 11, 12, and 13 are usually omitted, and line 14 should be drawn 
from dot F. The curved line 17 (Fig. 5) is usually put in large or 
small as desired. 

2. The front is drafted same as Fig. 2, except there is usually 
only one dart put in, either in front or under the arm. Line 12 is 
omitted and line 14 drawn from dot J instead of dot S, on account of 
the Hip measure being small and not requiring so much spring for the 
hips. 

If there should be nothing for darts a sufficient quantity may be 
added to line 6 to make a small dart. 

The front shoulder for a child is usually made the same length as 
the back shoulder. 

3. In finding the amoimt for darts refer to miscellaneous rules 
for drafting (Fig. 2.) 



28 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 



FIG. 7. 




A DIAGRAM REPRESENTING THE DRAFTING FOR A SLEEVE. 



RULES FOR DRAFTING. 



In addition to the measures given in the rules for taking the meas- 
ure for a sleeve, a test measure should be taken by passing the tape 
around the fleshy part of the arm just below the shoulder joint. 

And there should also be two inches added to the size of Arm 
measure for the size of Sleeve Head. 

1 . Lines 1 and 2 are obtained in the same manner as Fig. 1 , and 
without moving Square make dot A on line 1 one inch below junction 
of lines 1 and 2. Make dot B on line 1 one-half inch below dot A. 

2. Make dot C on line 1 one-fourth of the size of Sleeve Head, 
below junction of lines 1 and 2. Make dot D on line 1 the same dis- 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 29 

tance below the junction of lines i and 2 as the measure taken from 
Point of Shoulder to the Elbow. 

' 3. Place Corner of Square at dot A, Long Arm on line 1, and 
draw line 3. 

4. Draw line 4 from dot B parallel with line 3. 

5. Make dot E on line 4 one-half of the Sleeve Head measure 
from dot B. 

6. Place the Corner of Square at dot D, Short Arm on line 1, 
and make dot J at Long Arm of Square one inch from dot D. 

7. Without moving Square make dot K at Long Arm of Square 
at a point indicating one-half the size of Elbow measure from dot D, 
and make dot L two inches beyond dot K. 

8. Make dot F on line 1 the length of Arm measure below the 
junction of lines 1 and 2. 

9. Place Corner of Square at dot F, Long Arm on line 1, and 
draw line 5 from dot F at Short Arm of Square. 

10. Make dot G one inch outside line 1 at a point two inches 
above dot F. 

11. Measure from dot G and make dot H on line 5 one-half inch 
more than half the Wrist measure. 

12. Now draw line 6 from dot H to dot G and make dot 1 on 
line 6 one-half inch from dot H. 

13. Draw line 8 with crayon or pencil from dot C to dot E, so 
as to touch line 2, making a good curve for the Sleeve Head. 

14. Ascertain the exact length of line 8. Now make dot M on 
line 3, the remainder of Sleeve Head measure from dot C. 

15. Draw line 9 by a sweep of one-half of the size of Sleeve 
Head from dot M to dot C, or by dotting it out with pencil or crayon. 

16. Place Curved End of Square at dot J, inside of Long Arm 
on dot C, and draw curved line from dot C to dot J. Now place 
Curved End of Square at dot J and finish line 10 from dot J to dot G. 

17. Place Curved End of Square at dot M inside of Long Arm 
on dot K and draw line 1 1 ; turn Square over, place Curved End at 
dot K and finish line 11 from dot K to dot I. 

18. Draw line 12 in the same manner as line 11, from dot E 
through dot L to dot H. If the proper curve is not obtained at dots 
K and L for the elbow, place curve of Square on inside of lines 10 and 



30 INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 

1 1 at the elbow and draw short curved lines, giving a good curve at 
elbow. 

19. If the distance from dot C to line 11, and from dot C to line 

12 combined does not equal the test measure, lines 13 and 14 should 
be drawn from dots M and E to clots K and L, at a point equal the 
amount of the test measure, and may be curved outward if necessary, 
to give the required amount. 

20. Place Corner of Square at dot J ; Long Arm one-half inch 
inside of dot C on line 6 and draw straight line. 



A TIGHT-FITTING CLOAK. 



The Back for a Tight-fitting Cloak is drafted the same as Fig. 1, 
with the following exceptions : — 

1. After making dot D the width of Back on line 4, make a dot 
three-fourths of an inch beyond ; now make dot N one-half inch below 
the dot just made on line 4. 

2. Make dot F one-half inch more than the Back Waist S5ale 
No. 1 indicates. 

3. Make dot H three-fourths of an inch more than the Back 
Waist Scale No 2 indicates, and make dot J one-half inch more than 
the Back Waist Scale No. 1 indicates. 

4. Make dot L one and three-fourths inches more than the size 
of Waist Scale No. 2 indicates. 

5. Draw line 8 from junction of lines 3 and 7 5 through dot D to 
dotN. 

6. Draw line 9 from dot N to dot H on line 5. 

The front of a Tight-fitting Cloak is drafted the same as Fig. 2, 
with the following exceptions : — 

1. Make dot D on line 2, three-fourths of an inch less than the 
size of Breast Scale on Long Arm of Square indicates. (The same 
amount that is added to the width of Back must be deducted from the 
size of Breast in actual inches). 

2. Make dot J on line 6 one-fourth of an inch more than the 
length of line 9 in Figure 1 below dot I, 



THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE 3 I 

3. Make dot K on line 6 one-fourth of an inch below dot I. 

4. Draw line 7 to dot I. 

5. Make dot L on line 7 three-fourths of an inch less than Front 
Arm Scale on inside of Short Arm indicates. (The same amount 
should be deducted from the depth of Arm Size that is deducted from 
the size of Breast Measure.) 

6. The Arm Shape should be drawn through dot L to dot K on 
line 6. 

7. Only one dart is usually put in front, which should be made 
from two and a-half to three inches from the front hem line according 
to the size of Waist. 



LOOSE-FITTING GARMENTS. 



1 . The drafting for loose-fitting garments is performed in the 
same manner as when drafting Figs. 1 and 2, the only change being 
made at the waist line, which is done by not putting in the front darts. 
If it is desirous to make the garment half-fitting, one small dart should 
be put in front. 



PRINCESS DRESS. 



1. A Princess Dress is drafted the same as Figs. 1 and 2. Lines 
13 and 14 and lines 15 and 16 (Fig. 1) are extended the desired length 
of skirt of dress, sloping gradually to give the proper width of skirt. 

Line 1 (the front hem line) and line 15 (Fig. 2) should be carried 
down the entire length of skirt in front. 

Lines 13 and 14 should also be carried down to give the proper 
length of side front, 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE EXCELSIOR SQUARE, 



A FRENCH BACK. 



The French back is drafted like Fig. I, except lines 10, it, 14 
and 15 are omitted. Dot E should be made three-fourths of an inch 
from dot C on line 5 ; dot H is usually made a little less than the Back 
Waist Scale No. 2 indicates. 

For skirt of basque, make dot I one-half inch outside of line 1. 
Now place Curved End of Square at dot E inside of Long Arm on dot 
I and draw line 13. 

Where the French back is used only one dart is usually put in 
front. For finding the amount for darts refer to miscellaneous rules 
for drafting (Fig. 2). 



PRICE OF SYSTEM. 



1 System with Instructions, - - $15.00 

1 System without Instructions, - - 10.00 

1 Measure Book, - 1.00 

Hinge Squares 50 cents extra. 

Instructions in Cloak and Sleeve Drafting, $5.00 extra. 
One Square, one Book of Instructions, and a Measure Book, con- 
stitute a System. 

Special rates to agents ; also, a reduction will be made to dress- 
makers who wish for a quantity of Systems. 

In all letters of inquiry a stamp must be enclosed. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




AGENTS WANT 



In every town in the United States and Canada, also lb travel for the 

EXCELSIOR SQUARi 



A system of measurement that requires no refitting under any Circumstances, wl 
the rules given for drafting have been complied with. Every lady who investigat 
and becomes thoroughly acquainted with its merits will surely want it. It is simple, 
easily learned, and accurate in every particular, and is not encumbered with two or 
three extra pieces that most all other systems have, there being nothing but the plain 
square used in drafting, consequently it is durable and will last a lifetime. 

A Measure Book and Instruction Book 

Accompany the System, containing complete diagrams, with rules for drafting 
made so plain and easy that any one can learn to use this system from the Instruc- 
tion Book alone, without the aid of a teacher. 

It is based wholly upon mathematical principles. Every part of the garment is 
drafted with the corresponding degree of accuracy which is essential in order to pro- 
cure a perfect fit for every portion of the figure. 

EXTRA INDUCEMENTS OFFERED TO AGENTS. 



MR. & } 



T ELPS, 



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